The Japan Romantic Road: Shrines & Volcanic Springs

Departing Utsunomiya brings you west into the steep, sacred mountains of Nikko National Park. Here, nestled inside a monumental forest of towering, 400-year-old native cryptomeria (Japanese cedar) trees, lies the World Heritage Toshogu Shrine. Unlike the typical minimalist design of Japanese temples, Toshogu is an absolute, jaw-dropping masterpiece of opulent gold-leaf, intricate wood carvings, and vibrant colors. As you wander past the red-lacquered gates, you will spot the legendary 'Three Wise Monkeys' carving (representing Hear no evil, Speak no evil, See no evil) and the sleeping cat (Nemuri-neko). The shrine serves as the final, sacred resting place of Tokugawa Ieyasu, the founder of the shogunate that ruled Japan for 250 years. Standing in the deep, silent cedar forest—with the morning mist drifting past the golden pagodas and stone lanterns—is an incredibly spiritual, historic, and powerful experience, establishing a magnificent, legendary beginning to your drive.

Climbing the legendary Irohazaka Slope—with its 48 hairpin curves winding up the mountain—brings you into the high volcanic plateau of Okunikko, arriving at Lake Chuzenji. Formed over 20,000 years ago by the eruption of Mount Nantai, the lake is a spectacular, deep blue sea nestled high in the peaks. Right at the lake outlet lies Kegon Falls, an absolute geological wonder of Japan. Here, the entire outflow of Lake Pukaki is funneled through a narrow cliff gorge, plunging 97 meters vertically into a deep, rock-strewn canyon below. Taking the dynamic elevator shaft down through the solid rock to the lower viewing platform is highly recommended; the sheer volume of water is terrifying, with a deafening roar and a massive cloud of white spray that rises high into the air. The surrounding basalt cliffs are covered in deep green pine forests that turn a spectacular, fiery red and gold in autumn, creating a breathtaking landscape of scale, force, and color.

Driving west past the mountain passes brings you deep into the Gunma highlands to Kusatsu Onsen, the undisputed hot-spring capital of Japan. Sitting high on a volcanic plateau, the town's central focal point is the Yubatake ('Hot Water Field')—a massive, spectacular open-air field of wooden chutes where the steaming, neon-green sulfur spring water is funneled and cooled naturally before being piped to local bathhouses. The atmosphere here is highly unique, with a constant cloud of white volcanic steam rising into the air and a rich, therapeutic sulfur scent filling the streets. You can wander the historic cobblestone lanes lined with wooden ryokans, soak your feet in free thermal footbaths, and experience the public hot springs. Kusatsu's water is highly acidic and packed with volcanic minerals, celebrated for its legendary healing properties. It is a highly traditional, sensory-rich, and restorative stop that represents the absolute pinnacle of Japanese hot spring culture.